JADIS: A Superb New Bistro, B+

  As anyone who lives in or regularly visits Paris now knows, the best food in the city is most often now found in outlying neighborhoods that are long Metro ride away. Happily, the Paris Metro system is fast, inexpensive and safe, which means that there’s absolutely no reason whatsoever to miss Jadis, which is one of the best new bistros to have opened in a very longtime.

  Occupying an attractively renovated corner-cafe space in a quiet residential neighborhoood near the Porte de Versailles convention center--this explains the odd crowd of food-loving local hipsters mixing it up with the execs in suits, this burgundy-and-gunmetal gray spot is the new perch of young chef Guillaume Delage, a major new talent with a very impressive resume. Delage was mostly recently at Pierre Gagnaire’s Gaya fish house on the Left Bank, and has also cooked at Michel Bras and Le Pré Catalan.

   This top drawer experience also explains the incredible technical talent you’ll find in your plate here. A perfect example was the stunningly pretty and absolutely delicious artichoke, chicken and foie gras terrine with celery root puree and a slice of red berry compote that I had as a starter. As Bruno rightly observed, this dish was the type of thing one expected to find, usually badly done, at first communion lunches. Here the flavors were vivid but supremely compatible, and each ingredient had a nice texture. Cream of pumpkin soup had the delicious depth provided by excellent stock and a swirl of creme fraiche, while a friend at a neighboring table loved her feuillette of snails and wild mushrooms, which came to the table as an impressive pastry turban.

   Intrigued by what seemed like Delage’s Gallic take on a “financiera,” or a Torinese dish of cock’s combs, duck hearts, kidneys, and other innards, I went for it. Perfectly cooked, it lacked only a light sauce to bind these different elements together. I also liked Delage’s somewhat aescetic take on blanquette de veau, which came in a small Alessi casserole with a plate of perfectly cooked carrots, potatoes, mushrooms and leeks. A perfectly poached pear and a coffee-flavored pot de creme with a homemade Breton style sable biscuit ended this feast, and this excellence of this meal, and the reasonable prices, including some nice and gently priced wines, explained why this place was packed on a rainy Monday night. I can’t wait to go back.  

208 rue de la Croix-Nivert, 15th, 01.45.57.73.20. Metro: Porte de Versaille. Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. 

Comments

[John Talbott]

A great place; ageree fully.